Cover the dried chillies with freshly boiled water and leave them to soften. Toast the desiccated coconut in a dry frying pan over medium low heat for 7 to 10 minutes, stirring constantly, until deep golden. Transfer it to a plate, cool briefly, then grind or pound it until fine and slightly oily. Set aside the entire prepared batch of kerisik.

Drain the softened chillies and discard the soaking water. Blend them with the shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal, sliced white lemongrass and 60ml water until smooth. Add only a small extra splash of water if necessary to move the blades.

Heat the oil in a wide, heavy based casserole over medium heat. Add the cinnamon, star anise, cardamom and cloves and stir for 30 seconds. Add the spice paste and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring frequently, until slightly darker, mellow smelling and beginning to release oil around the edges.

Add the beef and bruised lemongrass. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, turning the pieces until coated and no longer raw looking on the outside.

Add the coconut milk and 250ml water. Mix the tamarind paste with 30ml warm water and add it with ¾ teaspoon salt. Bring to a gentle simmer, partially cover and cook over low heat for 70 to 80 minutes. Stir every 15 minutes until the beef is beginning to become tender.

Add the entire prepared batch of kerisik, the palm sugar, finely sliced makrut lime leaves and the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt. Remove the lid and simmer over medium low heat for 30 to 40 minutes. Stir every 5 minutes at first and increasingly often as the sauce becomes thick, oily and deep brown.

Reduce the heat to low when very little loose sauce remains. Stir and turn the beef continuously for 10 to 15 minutes, scraping the pan, until the dark seasoning mixture clings to every piece. Remove the bruised lemongrass and whole spices where practical. Taste and add more salt if needed, then rest for 10 minutes before serving.